Here’s a wine to put the zip in your zip-a-dee-doo-dah! There’s so much going on, you almost don’t know which way to look. Zippy lime acidity cuts through a carnival of flavours from caramelised peaches, toasted oats, salted nuts and an umami quality akin to miso. I’ve just reread those tasting notes and if a waiter served me a dish comprising those ingredients, I would send it back to the kitchen, but it somehow makes sense here. Make no mistake, this is a seriously high quality Chardonnay from the brilliant Andrew Hoadley, whose love affair with Burgundian Chardonnay began when he got a job as a grape-picker in Puligny-Montrachet. 11.9% alc. Drink now-2028.