When it comes to Jura whites, we have to confess that we dive from the lowest diving-board. We’re not brave enough for the fully oxidised vin jaunes or even the heavily flor-influenced whites. We like the ones that are ‘topped up’ (known as ouillé), which stops the level of the wine in the barrels from falling so low that enough air gets in to allow a layer of yeast to form on the surface, giving that very nutty, salty, oxidised flavours enjoyed by those brave souls who dive from the top diving-board.

Domaine Rolet’s Arbois Chardonnay 2020 is regularly topped up, so the wine is bright and clean, Burgundian in its formation (18 months in barriques, 30% new), but it still has a nutty Jura character, no doubt courtesy of the ambient yeasts in the winery, which can be just as influential in conveying terroir as soil, topography or climate. It’s wonderfully tangy, with citrus peel and sour apricot, as well as a dash of sweetening honey and some hardwood notes, like cedar or sandalwood. A proper Jura experience without 13% alc. Drink now-2028.

Organic (in conversion).