If you have to explain what a cult wine tastes like, you’ve broken the most important rule of cultivating a following for it. No self-respecting cult wine would allow itself to be exposed to the vulgar gaze of those seeking to understand it. One must speak obliquely, like this tasting-note, speaking about it tangentially, otherwise, like a comet coming too close to Earth, it will break up in the atmosphere of over-exposure. One must never talk about the grape variety, unless it is an extremely obscure one, in which case one must talk about it as if it were commonly-known, and the only other acceptable subjects for discussion are the geology of the soil, whole bunch fermentation, wild yeasts and a funny anecdote about the winemaker’s horse. 12% alc. Drink now-2036.