This is how you do a Mendoza Malbec! We’ve tasted far too many over-oaked examples, including previous vintages of this very wine, where it feels like the whole spice cupboard has fallen into the vat. Oak should be subtle and complementary and perform the same function as a bridal veil, allowing a tantalising glimpse of the beauty that lies beneath. It is for this reason that brides don’t wear balaclavas. This glorious Malbec has the balance spot-on, with the perfectly-judged oak allowing the wine’s purity to radiate. Sumptuous, inky black fruits emerge initially, followed by delicate notes of wisteria, kola and chocolate shavings, which all shine though the fine layer of cedar and vanilla from the 12 months of ageing in new French and American barrels. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2025.