This was our favourite red wine at Vinateros, the ‘new wave’ Spanish trade tasting that takes place in London every 2 years. It’s made from the Baboso Negro grape grown on the western side of Tenerife in the trips-off-the-tongue appellation of Ycoden-Daute-Isora. As you would expect, it has a subtle, volcanic smokiness to it, as well as a peppery character, but there’s so much more to it than spice and mineral accents. It’s taut, nervy and focused on the palate, offering zesty red berry and violet flavours, but the fruit is succulent and sweet and fills the mouth with floral cherry and pomegranate and a little nutty oak, finishing on a tender note that evokes some of the best wines from Beaujolais or the Jura. Exceptional!

Technical data: Baboso Negro from a single vineyard called La Vizacondesa. 20-year-old ungrafted vines planted on clay-loamy soils. 30% of the grapes are whole-bunch fermented without crushing. Cold maceration for 48 hours followed by stainless-steel fermentation.. After pressing, the wine is racked into used 600-litre French oak casks. Barrel maturation lasts 12 months and the wine is not stabilised or filtered.

Organic farming

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “As with the rest of the wines, I tasted two vintages of this red, so I also sampled the 2017 Ignios Orígenes Baboso Negro, which matured in a 1,500-litre oak foudre (and one barrique), so the rate at which the wine takes oxygen during the élevage was very different from the 2016. This felt much younger, and it had a creamy twist that was probably added by the new oak in which it was aged. It has plenty of fine-grained tannins that might require a little more time in bottle. Drink now-2024.” 93 points