“Having tasted widely from north to south, my highlight is surely discovering the wines of David Silva at Bodegas Tameran on Gran Canaria. The Malvasía Volcánica 2022 is my favourite.” -JancisRobinson.com, 18 points

The Wine Advocate describes this wine as ‘floral and perfumed’, so if they ever send you a bunch of flowers, throw them straight in the bin! There is nothing floral or perfumed about this wine, it’s like a sack of rocks that’s been pummeled by a sledgehammer, it’s like a cargo of lemons being dashed against the rocks, it’s like a quarry after a dynamite blast. The grape isn’t called Malvasia Volcanica for nothing. It’s elemental and packed with salted lime and smoked nuts, but there’s tangy fruit too, so there’s something ripe and delicious to bite into as well all the volcanic material. We love wines like this, with such an amazing sense of place, and hope you will too. 12% alc. Drink now-2027.

Tameran

Tameran is a new project started in 2019 by the great footballer and Canary Islands native, David Silva (ex-Manchester City). David got in touch with Jonathan García (owner and winemaker at Suertes del Marques) while he was based in Manchester, after enjoying one of his wines in a restaurant [I bet it was the Trenzado!]. They formed a friendship and as David is a wine enthusiast, discussed the possibility of a project together. When an estate on Gran Canaria, which included six hectares of native vineyards, came up for sale, David asked Jonathan to come on-board as viticulturalist and winemaker and the rest is history!

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com: “Expressive red apple and quince. Sweet-fruited yet in the right amount to be in harmony with the vibrant acidity and grippy texture. It is persistent, with a touch of salinity and black pepper that makes it extra appealing. It takes a lot of craft to hit the perfect spot of tension and intensity with elegance. Drink now-2030.” 18 points

The Wine Advocate: “The barrel and foudre fermented and aged 2022 Malvasía Volcanica, a natural crossing between Marmajuelo and Malvasia Aromatica, is moderately floral and perfumed (the variety is more neutral than the Aromatica one), and it has good ripeness and 11.8% alcohol with a vibrant palate and great freshness. The palate is more austere than I expected, which I like. Drink now-2028.” 93+ points