Astronomers talk about the ‘Goldilocks Zone’, referring to the zone around a star where the temperature is just right - not too hot and not too cold - for liquid water to exist. On a slightly less interplanetary note, Chardonnay has a ‘Goldilocks Zone’ too - not too sweet and not too sour - and this example from Chile is the perfect bowl of porridge, which isn’t a sentence I ever thought I would write. The concentration is such that it carries the keen acidity with ease, which is also the case with the greatest wines from Chablis and Burgundy and anyone with a predilection for either will find themselves in seventh heaven here. Sculpted and athletic, it reverberates with energy and sinewy strength, defined more by length and contour than overt fruit flavours, which are from the citrus branch. 13% alc. Drink now-2028.

Press reviews:

Vinous: “The 2021 Chardonnay Talinay from Limarí was aged for 10 months in barrels from different forests. Greenish yellow in the glass. The nuanced nose presents herbs and green apple and hints of lime against an elegant backdrop of hazelnuts. Broad and terse on the palate, with a voluminous creamy flow, it’s enlivened by saline acidity before the lengthy finish. Drink now-2028.” 93 points

JancisRobinson.com: “12 km (7 miles) from the Pacific Ocean on limestone soils. pH 3.12, RS 1.59 g/l. Fermented in French oak for 10 months. Lemony and lean but somehow still with a creamy oak presence. Key-lime yogurt, chalky, tart green apple, eye-squinting acid. There's a toasty-grain quality on the finish that's pleasant. Drink now-2028.” 16.5 points