This is a really beautiful Portuguese white, a blend of Rabigato, Arinto, Viosinho and everybody's favourite, Codega do Larinho. There's a lovely lemon pith character that takes the lead, bringing both acidity and textural grip and setting the scene before the riper stone and citrus fruits arrive. It's a wine that skirts the area between the fruit and the rind, the point at which fruit sweetness turns slightly bitter, while also showing hints of candlewax, bitter melon, kumquat, grapefruit and chalk. The vineyards grow on a mix of mica and schist soils situated at 500 metres above sea level, which is vital for white grape varieties in the Douro, as the temperature is cooler than in the valley below, allowing the skins to develop their full aromatic potential. It's a seriously well-made (and well-priced) white for drinking with a piece of fine Atlantic fish. 13% alc. Drink now-2027.