I would suggest that the difference between this wine and their more expensive, single-vineyard ‘Ava Marie’ Chardonnay, has more to do with style than quality. They are both equally fabulous examples of cool climate New World Chardonnay and this just has a bit more of the jangling, in-your-face minerality compared to the ‘Ava Marie’, which feels broader, deeper and more grandiose. This is the upright piano for playing honkytonk, whereas the ‘Ava Marie’ is the grand piano for playing Chopin recitals.

On the nose there is a flash of matchstick reduction, as well as nutty fun from the barrel fermentation, while delicate flavours of white peach, lemon balm and grapefruit flesh out the core. The palate is bright and polished with the house’s signature vibrant acidity pulling through to give a Chardonnay with chiselled European incisiveness even if its roots are South African. 13% alc. Drink now-2030.

Press reviews:

Tim Atkin MW: “The basic Restless River Chardonnay uses younger vine material and around 20% of the 26-year-old Ava Marie vineyard. It's a very smart white from Craig Wessels, overcoming the challenges of a tricky vintage. Barrel fermented in 10% new oak with 50% malolactic, it's a refined, tangy, elegant red with citrus, wet stone and rice pudding notes and a lingering finish. Drink now-2030.” 94 points