If you’ve been hill-walking, you will know that feeling where you reach a crest, but the next peak looks higher, so you climb that, but on reaching the top of that rise, the next peak seems higher and so on and so on. That’s what tasting white Burgundies from the 2021 vintage felt like, until we reached this wine and, as we stared in wonder from its summit, we realised that all the other peaks were below us. This was above-the-clouds good!

Layers of chalk and flint weave their way through the fruit like geological strata, bringing a wonderful sense of minerality to the richly concentrated palate. The aromas molecules feel compact, like smelling undiluted lime cordial, but the wine itself is incredibly elegant, as if the density has been drawn out in length and counterbalance, not weight or mass. Endlessly fascinating and delicious. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2032.

Press review:

Jancis Robinson MW: “Aromatic and smooth with real integrity and precision. Pretty classic! Long. Drink now-2032.” 17 points