You've seen them, haven't you, the wine bores? Down at the golf course. In the clubhouse. The wine bores. You've seen them. Talking about Chablis. By the bar. By where they keep the peanuts. The wine bores. You see them on the ferry too, don't you? Talking about Sancerre. The wine bores. And at tastings, you've seen them, the wine bores. Saying "chateau-bottled" and "premier cru". They wander about, don't they, the wine bores. Explaining things you already know. By where they keep the cheese and biscuits. You've seen them. The wine bores. Spitting bits of cheese on you.

If there is a wine bore in your life, here's a wine to confound them. It's subtle and understated, like a Chablis, yet fresh and zingy, like a Sancerre, while showing a richness more akin to a premier cru white Burgundy, but it's none of the above, it's a Verdejo from north-eastern Spain, near Galicia. The silver-green colour is immediately appealing to the eye, and, on the palate, there is a fine, silky quality, a richness of texture that frames the pear and yellow citrus fruit, which has been broadened by its time in barrel, yet it doesn't taste remotely oaky. Serve it instead of a chateau-bottled premier cru. 13.5% alc. Matured for 9 months in barrel. Drink now-2028.

Press reviews:

The Wine Advocate: "The eponymous 2020 Ossian was produced with Verdejo grapes from old, organically farmed vines around the village of Nieva (Segovia), a zone where phylloxera didn't reach. They consider 2020 their finest vintage to date, with a big change from 2018 and when they have achieved a much better understanding of their vineyards. It has notes of pit fruit and sweet spices, with good weight on the palate, moderate alcohol (13.5%) and ripeness and good freshness and balance. It's serious and with potential to develop in bottle. Drink now-2028." 94 points

Decanter: "An elegant and refined Verdejo from pre-phylloxera (very) old vines north of Segovia. This is a serious expression of the grape with some smoky oak influence from ageing on lees for nine months in 228-600 litre barrels. There’s serious complexity and concentration of fruit but the overall impression is subtle and refined. Still young. Organic. Drink now-2030." 94 points