It’s all about perspective. Rudy Kurniawan sold wines to the international fine wine market that appeared to be Grand Cru white Burgundy, but weren’t, and he received a 10-year jail sentence. Kumeu River sell wines to the international fine wine market that appear to be Grand Cru white Burgundy, but aren’t, and they get universal praise from the wine critics.

You could easily pour their Hunting Hill Chardonnay 2021 from a decanter instead of a Chevalier-Montrachet and your dinner guests will be none the wiser. In fact, they might even prefer it. It’s opulent and savoury and flecked with minerals and has all the poise and persistence that you would expect from a top white Burgundy. It’s drinking beautifully now, but there’s nothing to suggest that it won’t still be alive and kicking in a decade’s time. 14% alc. Drink 2024-2036.

Press review:

Jancis Robinson MW: “‘In the last few years this has really been blooming’, said Paul. All clone 15, facing south-west so it gets the prevailing maritime breezes. Clay over an iron pan. 25% new barrels, all François Frères. Pale straw. Strong lemon aroma with light smokiness and real lift. Lovely balance and great youth and extremely long. Raciness. This is just a treasure that deserves to be cellared awhile to take full advantage of its potential for complex development. It has the same steeliness but more obvious fruit than in typical fine Australian Chardonnays. Tight finish for the moment. Drink 2025-2036.” 17.5+ points

Richard Heming MW: “Absolutely stunning – gorgeous fruit purity complemented by sparky minerality, subtle oak spice and a gentle dairy quality. Fulfils every expectation. Drink now-2035.“ 17 points

Vinous: “The 2021 Chardonnay ‘Hunting Hill’ is its usual sinewy, taut and lightly floral self. Often in the shadow of ‘Maté’s Vineyard’, ‘Hunting Hill’ seems to be becoming more and more serious as the vines age - they’re around 20 years old. Expect a muscular, unyielding wine that has lemon and lime bitter notes, nectarine and even a whiff of seaside - all salty and briny. Drink now-2035.” 95 points