You might not have heard of Jasnières. I don’t mean that as a reflection on your wine knowledge, I mean because Jasnières almost disappeared from the appellation map in the 1970s, so you might not have heard of it, had Joël Gigou not saved it from oblivion by reinvigorating its vineyards through organic farming and meticulous husbandry. His son, Ludovic, now runs the domaine and is honouring his father’s work with a fine portfolio of wines. His ‘Jus de Terre’ is a beautiful, dry Chenin Blanc with a satisfyingly succulent core of refreshing green melon fruit, which seems to amplify on the palate, so although it comes from one of France’s most northerly vineyards, the acidity and ripeness are in perfect balance. If you like the more famous wines of Savennières, you will love this lesser-known and consequently less expensive alternative. 12.5% alc. Wild yeast fermentation. Aged in chestnut barrels. Drink now-2030.

Organic.