This Givry is a blend from 2 different vineyards, called ‘Varot’ and ‘Chaponnières’, and thanks to the peculiarities of French appellation law, you can’t mention two vineyards on the front label, so Michel Sarrazin has wryly called it Givry ‘Sans Nom’ (‘Without Name’). To be fair, most people haven’t even heard of Givry, let alone ‘Varot’ and ‘Chaponnières’, so his disdain for the system is somewhat moot.

Moving swiftly onto matters of more widespread interest, this is one of those really exciting white Burgundies, for which we make no apology for pulling out the soap box once again, because it has so much going on: energy, concentration, minerality and oak (exclusively from the top tonnelier, Francois Frères). There’s gunflint and plant sap on the nose, along with grapefruit, white peach, toasted seeds and shiso leaf (I told you there was a lot going on!). Michel Sarrazin doesn’t filter his wines, so all the goodness is still in the bottle, and the palate has amplitude and breadth. We destroy a lot of tooth enamel looking for white Burgundy of this quality for less than £30.00, so this wine really makes us smile. Well, it would if it weren’t for the state of our tooth enamel. 13% alc. Drink now-2029.