Call me shallow, but a beautiful label will often predispose me favourably towards a wine and this one had me writing a positive tasting-note before I’d even taken a sip. It’s a very mineral-driven Furmint (the Hungarian grape variety having a renaissance in Austria), with flavours of grapefruit, lime, white radish and pear, not wholly dissimilar to a top-notch Gruner Veltliner. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2028.

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): “Smells of pear skin and green-apple skin. White pepper and pickled jalapeño. And sauerkraut. Popcorn. Chamomile. Sweet hay. It's complex, interesting, mineral. There was about 150 ml left in the bottle after the tasting, and after six days it became more and more spicy (cardamom) and nutty (green almonds) with the acidity developing a lime fragrance. Serious Furmint. (TC). 12.5% alc. Drink now-2029.” 17 points