We’ve been having great fun with Italian grape varieties grown in Australia (Nebbiolo, Aglianico and Barbera, to name but a few) and now it’s the turn of a Spanish variety, Albariño, to take the limelight. There’s a lovely citrus blossom aroma that recalls the Albariños from Galicia, but the palate feels more concentrated, incisive and chiselled, with a sense of the clay soil, balanced by perfectly-pitched acidity.

Dalfarras is a small family affair run by Alister and Rosa Purbrick and their daughter, Hayley, who rent space at the famous Tahbilk winery in Victoria, the only winery in Australia to be 100% carbon neutral. 13% alc. Drink now-2026.

Press review:

Decanter: "Youthful and expressive, displaying notes of fresh dough and citrus fruits. Rich palate, with notes of roasted apples, keynote pithiness and a balanced freshness." 89 points