When choosing a starter or main course in a restaurant, I’m swayed by certain ingredients, so if I see coriander or yuzu, my pupils widen and my tastebuds perk up, whereas if I see beetroot or trotter, my gag reflex kicks in. It’s a similar story when reading a wine tasting-note, so if I see phrases like ‘mineral tension’ or ‘smoky reduction’ my bias is already more than halfway to being confirmed.

The first thing to say about this Chardonnay is that it is ‘topped up’ (i.e when the level in the barrel descends through natural evaporation, they add more wine to prevent oxygen getting in) so it’s not an oxidised style of Jura Chardonnay, it’s much closer to a Puligny-Montrachet in taste, with its incisive grapefruit and lemon flavours, its smoky reduction and its mineral tension. Garçon! 14% alc. Drink now-2029.

The Wine Advocate: “Yields in 2021 were as low as 11 hectolitres per hectare due to frost and hail (twice!) and a massive mildew attack, but the vintage was cooler than 2020 and 2019. The 2021 Patchwork Chardonnay comes from different plots and soils (hence the name), from 60% clay and 40% limestone, and has the Tissot precision, tastiness and spiciness and a leesy touch. Drink now-2029.” 93 points

Certified organic and biodynamic.

LIMITED AVAILABILITY. MAXIMUM 1 BOTTLE PER CUSTOMER. NOT AVAILABLE ON ITS OWN, MUST BE PART OF AN ORDER THAT MEETS OUR MINIMUM REQUIREMENT OF 6 BOTTLES. UK MAINLAND ONLY.