The Loire is such a dynamic region at the moment, full of burgeoning, as well as burgeoned (?!) talent. Anne-Laure Demaris is a brilliant young winemaker, producing scintillating Chenin Blancs at Domaine Haute-Perche. The walled vineyard, the 'Clos des Constants', has produced a very special wine in the 2022 vintage. There's real 'wow factor' on the nose and palate, pinging with tangy grapefruit, rhubarb and honeysuckle nectar, as well as delectable toasty notes from the fermentation and ageing in barrel. The vineyard sits on schist and quartz soil and bristles with a salt-crystal minerality, which bring life and energy to this grand wine, worthy of its place on the smartest dinner table. 14% alc. Drink now-2030.

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): "Golden, and quite a remarkable nose. It smells like cooked rhubarb, hardy lemon candy, kumquats and grapefruit jelly, but it deepens and angles on the palate, moving towards bitterness, wild honey, wild flowers, dried grass. It's folded and calico in texture; sonorous, alto, sumptuous. (TC). Drink now-2030." 17.5 points