There seems to be a misplaced sense that Crémant is just a stand-in for when the celebration doesn’t quite merit opening a bottle of Champagne, maybe for a middle management promotion or an income tax rebate, but when it is made as well as this (and is as smartly packaged as this), it deserves to be served at the ambassador’s reception along with the Fererro Rocher. It is made from a blend of organically-farmed Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay grapes, which are undoubtedly more conscientiously farmed than the grapes that go into most Champagnes, and then harvested by hand. Made using the traditional champagne method and finished in the style of a Brut, this Loire Crémant is dry and elegant with fine bubbles and beautiful purity. It is concentrated, yet slim, blessed with ample succulent fruit, notes of white flowers and brioche, and a touch of coolness and salinity and minerality that slakes the thirst. 12.5% alc. 12 months on its lees. Only 8,000 bottles are made. Drink now-2027.