Champagne Le Brun de Neuville 'Le Chemin Empreinté', Extra Brut, France NV
Champagne Le Brun de Neuville 'Le Chemin Empreinté', Extra Brut, France NV
A rich, gastronomic Champagne made from sustainably-farmed Chardonnay grapes grown in the Cote de Sézanne. Whereas their ‘Cote Blanche’ represents parcels dotted across the region, this is a single parcel called ‘Le Chemin Empreinté’ and is partly vinified in oak to add a little toastiness to the wine. Also, the secondary fermentation takes place under cork (as opposed to the more ubiquitous crown cap), which allows for the slow ingress of oxygen during the lees-ageing process. It still has the bright citrus character of a Blanc de Blancs, but with delicate notes of flaky pastry and biscuit crumb. 12% alc. 4 grams per litre RS. 25% reserve wine. 30% vinified in oak. Base wine 2017. Drink now-2028.
NB This cuvee is closed with a metal clip over the cork, known in French as an ‘agrafe’. To open, simply prise the metal staple away from the cork with a blunt knife or the bottle-opener part of a ‘waiter’s friend’ and pop the cork as normal. If in doubt, here’s a YouTube guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcK03-GXJ_E
Press review:
Jancis Robinson: "Lemon curd spooned through sour cream. Pistachio nuttiness, salty, clenched and lean muscularity, tiny but super-spiky bubbles. Unfurls like a large, white, heavy flag whipped by wind. Dramatic, distinctive and only just beginning. Drink now-2030" 17.5 points
James Suckling: "Gingersnaps, orange peel, toast and nutmeg on the nose, plus some honey. It’s creamy and expressive with soft bubbles and a tasty, spicy finish." 93 points
Tamlyn Currin (for JancisRobinson.com): "Smells of violets, bergamot and honeysuckle; tastes of lemon curd on rye toast topped with borage. A wine with a wide sweep of lemon-glittered sweetness within the contours of tiny glittery bubbles sharpening glitter-crystal acidity. You can barely feel the richness, so restless and bright is the structure. Drink now-2034." 17.5 points
Wine Enthusiast: “This beautiful Champagne has tension, steel and yeast flavours that encompass citrus, white fruits and high-wire acidity. The wine (which is based on the 2017 vintage) shows intensity and potential.” 94 points
Decanter: “Appealing floral, yellow apple and biscuit aromas. Creamy palate with grapefruit tones and saline texture. Delicate, long and dry finish.” 92 points