What a stunning aroma! It’s a heady cocktail of pummelled plums (ouch!), violets, grenadine, baking spices and yet more plums, those gorgeously scented Victoria plums, which is fitting, given where this wine comes from. It’s an extraordinary cornucopia of aromatic wonders and the palate isn’t too shabby either, showing an elegance and a translucency of flavour that is quite European in terms of weight and fragility (think Northern Rhone meets Margaux). It’s 100% Shiraz sourced from an unirrigated block planted in 1973. Watch out for a bit of natural sediment, so either decant or pour the last drops carefully. 13% alc. Drink now-2030.

Press review:

The Wine Companion: “From 8ha of shiraz planted in '73 on a westerly slope. Vivid crimson purple; counter-intuitively slightly deeper than '14 Carrodus. Spectacular intensity and power, yet the detail is so precise that you can smell and taste each tile in the mosaic of the wine: black cherry, licorice, spice, pepper, tannins, blackberry. Paradoxically, because it is due to this detail that the wine cries out for more time.” 98 points