We were at a tasting recently, with the usual array of wines lined up on trestle tables, but I spotted a member of the company wandering around with a bottle that wasn’t in the line-up, furtively pouring it for a few of his favourite contacts. Ever the master of discretion, I sidled over to him and said “Oi, Pete! What’s that? Slosh a bit in here!”, holding out my glass. Fortune favours the ill-mannered and it turned out to be the star of the tasting, only there wasn’t much to go around, hence the surreptitious pouring. We put our hand up for as much as we could get.

It’s made from the indigenous Limniona grape variety, which ‘Wines of Greece’ describe as “the rising star of the Greek red varieties and sure to be a driving-force for the development of numerous top wines around Greece for years to come”. It pours a wonderfully glossy ruby colour, not black or opaque, but vivid and translucent, and the fruit aromas are a mix of sour cherry, raspberry and quince with a sprinkle of cinnamon and nutmeg from the new French oak in which it bathed for a year before release. A really stunning example of modern Greek winemaking. 13% alc. Drink now-2030.

Organic (certified)