Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Russolo, Friuli, Italy 2019
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Russolo, Friuli, Italy 2019
It is thought that one of the main reasons why Merlot gained such a strong foothold among the public is that it is easy to say when ordering in a restaurant, in much the same way that Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso isn’t. It’s a shame, because Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso is a grape that can make fantastic wine, especially in Friuli, where its noble history dates back over two millennia (Pliny the Elder cited it as the favourite wine of Augustus’s wife, Livia, circa 20 BC!).
I was curious to see if Jancis Robinson had reviewed many Refosco dal Peduncolo Rossos on her website and I only found a handful, but the same adjectives recurred several times: “gorgeous”, “generous”, “seductive” and “sassy”. That chimes with our experience, because it’s a really expressive wine with dramatic aromas, and this example has theatrical swagger to burn. It’s the midnight swoosh of a musketeer’s cape, as he leaves a courtesan’s boudoir. It’s the wispy smoke rising from an incense-burner in a Chinese opium den. It’s the last dab of perfume on a Tsarina’s neck before she is led to the guillotine. Have some fun, swirl a glass and make your own ones up, but lay down a mattress, because you’re going to swoon. It’s a flamboyant and sensual red, serpentine as its flavours coil around your tongue, evocative of blood-red cherries steeped in orange juice, sweet spices from the bazaar, the juice of red-fleshed plums combined with cinnamon, coriander seed, neroli and mandarin oil, all mixed together like some early version of Pemberton’s recipe for "Dr. Tuggle's Compound Syrup of Globe Flower" (later known by its more catchy name, ’Coca-Cola’). Aww heck, it’s just wonderful! So, why hasn’t Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso caught on? It’s really hard to say. 13% alc. 12 months in barriques and tonneau. Drink now-2030.
Press review:
JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): “Seductive oak and red- and dark-fruit nose with a hint of leather. Lots of sweet-sour red fruit with an undercurrent of minerals. Long, and with firm but crunchy tannins. Highly distinctive. (WS). Drink 2024-2030” 17++ points