There’s a magical moment when serious Beaujolais pupates and transforms from chrysalis into butterfly, but like butterflies, it can vary depending on the type of Beaujolais or do I mean butterfly, I’m lost within my own analogy. When young, most ‘Cru’ Beaujolais (i.e. the serious ones, not the fruit juice they release on the third Thursday in November) taste pretty similar, dark and inky and redolent of black cherries and violets, but when the moment comes for it to evolve, it spreads its wings and reveals all the colours it has been concealing.

The Ballofière vineyard sits on an outcrop of granite high up within the Morgon appellation and the warm 2022 vintage has yielded an absolute beauty. It pours a very dark colour, rich in aroma and flavour, deep and mysterious, with purple flowers and black cherries interleafed with vanilla and charcoal dust. A gothic Morgon, purple-draped and heavy on the eyeliner. It is a sleek, intense and structured celebration of Gamay with a gorgeous interplay of fruit complimented by a firm sense of minerality. Burgundy lovers might note a familiar character, a certain musicality in the balance of muscle and refinement. The tannins have a little bit of grip, enough to stand up to red meat, but are drenched in fruit and will soften further with age. In fact, although it’s delicious, it’s only just stepping onto the dancefloor now. The vines here have an average age of 70 years and 30% of the wine was aged in barrel. 13% alc. Drink now-2036.

Organic. Biodynamic.

Press reviews:

JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage):“Stop the dance floor. Stop the music. Hold your glass halfway to your lips and breathe. Breathe. Deep. From the bottom of your lungs. Throw your shoulders back, throw your head back, bare your throat. When you hear that deep violet-velvet growl ...? That blueberry-stained-lips whisper of seduction ...? That kohl-smudged, graphite-scented breath ...? That's this wine. It's Morgon gone AWOL, found in a basement speakeasy smoking jazz and Amy Winehouse. It's Morgon soaked in blue moonlight and purple rain. It's liquid Joan Jett, Crimson and Clover. It's outrageously, rebelliously, dangerously delicious. Is it legal for Morgon to taste this seductive? Good Value. Drink now-2030.” 17 points and ‘Wine of the Week’

James Suckling (previous vintage): “A poised and vivid Gamay with sour cherries, currants, crushed strawberries and sweet spices on the nose. Medium body with fine tannins and fresh acidity. Peppery and flavourful finish with excellent length. Drink or hold.” 93 points

Customer Comments:

“That Morgon is the dog’s bollocks. Rich but fresh with amazing complexion of flavours and then that streak of wild side which gives it a fourth dimension. Tempted to get more!” - Mr. W. L.