The problem with a wine list such as ours, is that you, dear reader, only ever read about the highs, so you must think we are in a permanent state of euphoric fervour. Well, as Lord Byron said, “there is no such thing as a life of passion any more than a continuous earthquake, or an eternal fever. Besides, who would ever shave themselves in such a state?” The thing is, we only show you the wheat, never the chaff. In recommending this wine, for example, we don’t talk about the 300 other wines that we tasted on the same day. So, please forgive us as we line up the superlatives once again, but this is one of the best value Italian wine we have tasted in ages and the price makes a mockery of the quality.

It’s the colour of blackcurrant cordial, deep, healthy and visually reassuring, with an almost glass-coating viscosity. A dark, sumptuous beauty; unapologetically flamboyant; utterly seductive. It’s Montepulciano d’Abruzzo unlike any we have ever had before. As soon as the aromas make contact, you sense your body unclenching, because you know you are onto a winner. A satisfied sigh will involuntarily follow. It delivers a beaker full of the warm south, swirling with luscious dark fruits, vanilla pod, plum skins, raisins, shiny leather and wood polish. There then follows a big, plush, velvety mouthful of succulent blackberries, black ink, spiced damsons and some seriously fine oak giving it chocolate and vanilla notes, and finally a squeeze of orange juice to give it flight and lift. This is a stunning wine for £18.95, as hedonistic as it is serious. 14% alc. Drink now to 2032.