Minimalist 'Stars in the Dark' Syrah, Elim, South Africa 2023
Minimalist 'Stars in the Dark' Syrah, Elim, South Africa 2023
“Taffeta texture… like a soft kiss… the wine seems to float.” - Tamlyn Currin, 17.5 points (JancisRobinson.com)
Fresh-faced winemaker, Sam Lambson, is one of an exciting band of young guns carrying South Africa’s ‘New Wave’ flag into a bright and beautiful future. It’s a revolution that started in the Swartland, but has now spread to all areas, in this case, the rugged coastal region of Elim, only a few miles from the most southerly tip of Africa (which isn’t the romantically-named ‘Cape of Good Hope’, but the more clunky-sounding Cape Agulhas).
This is the sixth vintage of this cult Syrah. Sam’s debut vintage was picked out by Jancis Robinson as one of her highlights at the most recent ‘SA New Wave’ tasting in London, describing it as “a dead ringer for a Côte Rôtie”, and it sold out within hours. It’s certainly modelled on the Northern Rhone with its 30% whole-bunch fermentation, giving classic aromas of blueberry and pepper, but there’s a local accent too, with smoked biltong and rooibos tea infusing the blackcurrant fruit. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2038.
Press review:
JancisRobinson.com: “Smells spicy, medicinal, wintergreen and balm. Taffeta texture to those tannins with a splice of cumin and iodine, coffee and chicory. Rose hips. The fruit is like a soft kiss, almost breathy, barely there. Sam Lambson is like the John Sargent of Syrah winemakers, somehow capturing the intricacy and intimacy and power of colour and light in the most transparent, light-touch way possible. Despite the tight, tight finish, the wine seems to float. I wouldn't rush to drink this now, although it would be difficult to resist. (TC). Drink now-2035.” 17.5 points
Vinous (previous vintage): “The 2022 ‘Stars in the Dark’ comes from Cape Agulhas, stomped underfoot with one-third whole bunches, aged in 3rd and 4th fill French oak. The red fruit on the nose seems to “hug” the olfactory senses, very pure and beautifully delineated, an underlying mineralité gaining momentum with aeration. The medium-bodied palate has fine-grained tannins, extremely well-balanced with a precise, edgy finish, black pepper and black tea lingering temptingly. This continues Lambson’s strong run of form and comes highly recommended. Drink 2025-2038.“ 96 points