Comando G are doing wonderful things with the Garnacha grape, leading it away from the muscle gym and teaching it yoga. This is a gorgeous, light-bodied iteration of the variety, which can be drunk slightly chilled. It’s an earthy, soil-influenced red with an ethereal richness. 14% alc. Drink now-2030.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “The 2021 La Bruja de Rozas is their edgiest and most austere mineral and soil-driven version of their entry-level red. It's herbal, with no concession for fruit, and it has electricity and grip. It's a good preview of what's to come from 2021. It has a lot of 2018 and 2016 characteristics, a cool summer, a year with rain and even some during harvest that complicated matters and made them lose some grapes, but there's more grip, more minerality, more depth, layers and subtleness. It needs time in the glass, and my guess is that at age eight it's going to reach an outstanding level. A grown-up Bruja, it’s more for soil fanatics than the general public, and it’s one to lay down in your cellar (by the case) while you drink your 2020s. Drink now-2030.” 95 points

Importer's note: La Bruja de Rozas (the witch of Rozas) is the Comando G village wine, in effect, the grapes sourced from several vineyards around Las Rozas de Puerto Real. With up to 40% grapes still sourced from local winegrowers, most vineyards are situated in the lower part of the U-shaped valley between the townships of Rozas, Cadalso and Cenicientos. According to Dani Landi, vines closer to Cadalso show well-balanced red fruit while the style gets fresher and finer towards Rozas. Fermentation and maceration takes place in open-top oak vats with 100% whole clusters for 45 days and aged in 500-litre French oak barrels for a further 8 months. The fruit is darker in this wine (but the nose suggests red fruits) and there’s a smoky finish with some fine-grained tannins.