There were 827 wines on show at the wine fair where we discovered this wine and, judging by the purple teeth and general dishevelment of some of the attendees, it was seen as a target to be reached, rather than an opportunity to cherry-pick one or two interesting wines. We tasted no more than a hundred, focusing entirely on ‘value’ and eschewing the ‘trophy’ wines, around which the shiny-shoed were gathered to admire each others sunglasses.

This was the standout wine of the day, the 1% Club, so to speak. It immediately gave us that mellow, sun-filled glamour that we love in a good Cannonau from Sardinia, hinting at bing cherry, sun-softened Burgundy plums, tomato leaf, orange peel and sandalwood. It went beautifully with some roast pork and crackling, pliant enough to accompany the meat, while having the acidity to cut through the crackling. It’s not a big bruiser of a wine, only medium-deep in colour and body, which is quite typical of Cannonau di Sardegna. 14% alc. Drink now-2030.