Azienda Agricola Roberto Voerzio are a slightly mysterious outfit, as they don’t allow visitors. Even Monica Larner, who writes the Italian reports for ‘The Wine Advocate’, was obliged to buy bottles from the local enoteca in order to review them. So, whenever we receive an allocation of the Voerzio wines, we feel as if we have entered the secretive ‘inner sanctum’ of the wine trade (don’t panic, Q-Anon followers, there were no ritual sacrifices). Their Barbera d’Alba ‘Il Cerreto’ 2020 is a truly delicious, full-bodied expression of this noble, northern Italian grape variety, bursting with plump, exuberant fruit flavours and the heady high-tones that sing “Piedmont” with every note. In the bass clef you will find black cherry, cassis and red-fleshed plums, while in the treble you will find wood polish, fresh sage and even a falsetto note of orange peel. Drink with agnolotti del plin or slow-braised lamb ragu with cavatelli. 14% alc. Drink now-2032.

Press review:

Jancis Robinson MW: “Real edge to this, but without obvious oak. Very smooth tannins. Marked acidity. Truly varietal. (JR)” 16 points