Vickery Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia 2023
Vickery Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia 2023
Great wine is never an accident. Please forgive the pompous aphorism, but I’ve always wanted to be quoted in a big book about wine and I reckon that one has legs! The nugget of truth hidden behind my profound maxim (surely a great title for a coffee-table book - any publishers out there?) can be seen in this wine.
John Vickery is widely regarded as one of, if not, Australia's greatest producers of Riesling and an inspiration to those who have followed in his footsteps. With nearly 60 years’ experience in the wine industry, garnering over fifty trophies (including a coveted ‘Jimmy Watson’), and over 400 gold medals, John launched his own label a few years ago, making an Eden Valley and a Clare Valley Riesling. So, when you try a Vickery wine, you aren’t just tasting that year’s harvest, you are tasting decades of experience. Sadly, that experience came to an end in 2023, but his legacy lives on thanks to winemaker, Keeda Zilm, who has taken the reins and is now, in her own words, “the proud custodian of John’s philosophy, style and technique.”
The Vickery Rieslings age incredibly well (you can easily keep this one for 15-20 years), but they are still wonderful to enjoy when young. It has concentrated flavours of lime, dried orange peel, saffron, beeswax and green tea, all held within a succulent, but thoroughly dry palate. The fruit is sourced from 7 different growers in the Clare Valley, with whom John had established long-standing relationships over many years, so a lot of trust and mutual respect went into the planning and long-term realisation of this wine. As a brilliant mind once said, great wine is never an accident. 12% alc. Drink now-2040.
Press reviews:
The Wine Advocate: “This 2023 Watervale Riesling is a lovely wine, floral and pretty, with talc and a lingering finish that curls and wisps across the palate. It's really nicely done. The fruit comes from seven vineyard blocks across the Watervale district in Clare Valley. 12% alc. Drink now-2037.” 92 points
The Wine Companion: “I remember reading a 'Divine' magazine (anyone remember that?) many years ago on the 2002 Clare vintage. It mentioned some markers for the vintage, Christmas lily was one (tick), another was similar to letting a flake of sea salt melt on your tongue. I get that here, too. Quite concentrated with pure lime, apple and grapefruit, plenty of mineral swagger and cadence and a long, quite concentrated finish showing makrut lime, lemongrass and concentrated limey fruit.” 93 points
JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): “Bursting with ripe citrus flavour – squishy lime pulp, mandarin peel – this fills the mouth with intensity and deliciousness. Ravishing now, but will age gracefully for over 20 years, building layers of savoury, toasty complexity. VGV.” 17 points
Customer comments:
“Just to say really enjoying the Vickery Riesling, like a less austere Grosset. Suspect would age well too...I've had Polish Hill with 20 years, when it had blossomed wonderfully, but it's a bloody long time to wait!” - Mr A.S.