Soave Classico 'Scalette', Gianni Tessari, Veneto, Italy 2022
Soave Classico 'Scalette', Gianni Tessari, Veneto, Italy 2022
“This is Soave as you always wanted it to be.” - Richard Hemming MW
Subtle and understated wines like Soave rarely make the headlines, as they tend to get barged out of the way by the sharp elbows of attention-grabbers, so we are feeling particularly satisfied to have looked past the screaming wanabees to find this little belter. It's not a bland Italian white that smells of nothing but pears and apples, it's a fascinating little aromatic teaser, bristling with apricot kernel, lemon, grapefruit, lime zest and white flowers. It is taut and focused with a snap of juicy acidity, but there are some more intricate flavours at work too with a subtle almond-like nuttiness and pestled spices on the finish.
Pasta isn't as popular in Venice as it is in the rest of Italy, whereas fish plays a much more prominent role on the Venetian table, so it's no surprise that Soave Classico is the perfect match for it. It goes particularly well with baccalà (dried, salted codfish), seppioline (cuttle-fish) and risotto with black squid ink. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2026.
Press review:
Decanter: “A delightful single-vineyard, unoaked Soave. Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave, with smoky aromas, some stone fruit touches. Melon and pithy grapefruit joined by a herbal character on the palate then a mineral feel to finish. Good food wine. Drink now-2033.” 89 points
JancisRobinson.com: “Almond blossom. Delicately creamy with a little bit of tang. Masses of creamy white and lime-green florals over peppery and spring-like notes of pink apples, white pears and fresh snap peas. Everything you would want a lunch-time Soave to be. This must be the perfect risi e bisi wine. Drink now-2024.” 16 points